Nepal -- India

Its a crime how fast I'm blowing through this trip. I've been to some amazing places that you could spend months in, but I only have a few days. But like they say, you have to leave something to come back to. I'm leaving entire countries.

So we drove from Tibet across the Himalayas into Nepal. I stayed in Kathmandu and relaxed for a few days. The food was amazing and the people were very nice. The main landmark I visited was the Monkey Temple. Its is over 2000 years old and crawling with monkeys which now give me the creeps after a few bad encounters.

From Kathmandu I took a bus to the India border and then another to Varanasi. On crossing the border, my first impression of India was 'get me out.' I was ripped off on the bus ticket and every single person I met was rude to me. However, now that I've been around a few days I've learned that they are just intimidated by foreigners and once you start talking with them they are extremely kind.

Varanasi is known to many as the 'oldest living city' in the world. It dates back over 2500 years. It is the holiest city in Hinduism and is situated on the Ganges river which is both the holiest river in the Hindu religion and one of the world's most polluted rivers. Bathing in the Ganges can bring salvation, but also terminal infections.

My bus ride from Kathmandu was over 20 hours long and I arrived in Varanasi at 4am. Luckily I was up and the sun was just beginning to rise. I was with 3 others and we promptly hired a boat to take us out on the river. Locals were already gathering at the water's edge for a bath. It was an amazing sight and quite surreal to see them from the water. They wash themselves, swim, drink the water, and everything else imagineable. Just to the side of one of the ghats there were ten men taking their morning poo. I even saw a body float by which must have been sent off to the river as I arrived. Next door to my hotel was the burning ghat where they do cremations.

Varanasi certainly was lost in the past. Its streets were only wide enough for a cow to pass which was often the case. There was a very medieval feel to the atmosphere. Livestock roaming the city freely like a citizen, beggars everywhere and merchants carrying their goods around on rickshaws or their heads. The sounds of Varanasi are unique to the city and Hinduism. A constant noise of drums, whistles, scooter horns, cows, screaming and more. A remarkable city.

From Varanasi, I took a train down to Calcutta where I am now. As opposed to the ancient city of Varanasi, Calcutta was founded only 300 years ago by the British. It seems like nothing has changed since the British left during WWII. The cabs are ancient, buildings antique and decrepit, and the monuments are crumbling. The Indians just can't afford to maintain the city or they don't care to remember the British Imperialism.

I went to the flower market this morning and was a celebrity. I just wanted to take a few colorful photos of the flowers and hoped for a couple candids of the locals. As soon as one person got the guts to speak to me, I was the man of the hour and everyone wanted a picture. I must have had 100 people pose for me and I spoke with many of them. Others offered me flowers, tea or hand made jewelry as a gift. Deep down they are truly kind people.

I have one more day here before I fly to Dubai for a couple days. Then I'm off to Istanbul to be with some great friends for a week.

Seven Days in Tibet

Its already been over a week since I landed in Lhasa with Francois. The flight was too easy and it didn't feel like we really traveled to the top of the world. I spent a couple days in Lhasa getting used to the altitude and the culture. The Tibetan people are so nice and glad to see Westerners. I've been invited into many homes and cafes for tea and a chat. The food is terrific. I've had yak in every meal since I got here. Yak burgers put beef to shame.

I had already booked a tour through part of the region and I spent some time recruiting others to go with me in the car to keep the cost down. Together it was Francois and I, two girls, the driver and the guide packed into a Land Cruiser. We've been on the road now for 5 days together.

We've seen some amazing scenery and met some great people. I've toured at least four Buddhist monasteries and talked with many monks. Yesterday I woke up with Mt. Everest out my window only five miles away. Simply incredible. And, the stars at night out number any other view in the world.

We've had some adventures bribing gate keepers, touring closed monasteries under construction and acting violently ill so the police will let us pass. Altogether Tibet has been a great adventure.

Now I am waiting to cross the border into Nepal. They have a shoddy system and the road doesn't open until the border closes so I lose a day here, but that's part of the Chinese experience I guess.

Next stop - Kathmandu.